Now Serving Breakfast All Day

It's that time of year when rhubarb is all the rage, and while its most likely linked compadre, the strawberry, does a nice job of balancing out the tartness, I still feel a little bad for the ol' rhubarb. Can it not stand on its own? What's wrong with fully appreciating the tangy, celery-like stalks of rhubarb for what it is instead of just letting it sit in the shadow of its more popular and beloved partner? I'm also wondering, does anyone really like rhubarb for that matter? Or is it like that guy in a group of friends that no one really knows and he seems cool, but only because of the company he keeps? Like most of the things I discuss on clatter, I don’t have a lot of experience with rhubarb. It’s been an occasional acquaintance over the years – but I have a feeling we’ve gotten along because I like its friends (berries, crispy oatmeal, and butter). How well do I really know rhubarb? Not very. And I wasn’t sure how chummy I was feeling tonight either.

I've had three stalks of rhubarb sitting in my fridge since receiving my Organics to You box last Monday (more on OTY at a later time). Much like the eggplant, I've been avoiding the rhubarb...not so much because I'm intimidated by it, but rather because I've been waiting for that certain moment to be struck with culinary brilliance - that moment where I can prove to my reader(s) (I think someone other than my mother is still reading this) that I really can be innovative; I've been waiting for the time when my creative side might transcend the expected rhubarb-strawberry combo. Prior to any planned OTY delivery, rhubarb actually came up in conversation a few weeks ago, at which point I mentioned how I would love to come up with a savory recipe with rhubarb. We touched on the aforementioned, i.e. how boring and trite the rhubarb+strawberry combo had become, and I do believe I made a vow that clatter would come up with something first rate.

Well...turns out clatter doesn't always deliver as promised. As much as I tried to contemplate a dinner entree incorporating rhubarb this afternoon, I only got so far as pork tenderloin with a rhubarb chutney before I realized that my heart (or stomach) wasn't in it. Maybe this is partially because I had just finished the last Martha Stewart lemon bar I made for an office potluck earlier in the week and I wanted more. Maybe it was because I once proclaimed I am a better baker than I am a cook (not to mention a girl with a huge sweet tooth - I have dental records to prove it!), but after nine blog entries, I still had not yet written about a single dessert. Before I delve too far deep into my psyche (or simply try to justify not keeping my word), I’ll just say this: savory rhubarb anything was out for me tonight. I also knew that yet another rhubarb/berry pairing was out. Rhubarb and I might not be the best of friends, but that wasn’t going to stop me from introducing it to one of my dearest of friends. Here’s what I came up with:

AR’s rhubarb-mango compote (makes about 1 cup when fully cooked)
three stalks of rhubarb, chopped (about 2 cups)
1/4 cup water
few tablespoons of sugar (add more if you prefer really sweet – I like this tart!)
one small mango, chopped

Add rhubarb, sugar, and water to pot until boiling, then reduce to medium heat until rhubarb has begun to soften. Add mango (you don’t want to do this initially since the mango is much softer than the rhubarb and will just get mushy too early) and reduce to low heat until it has softened. Take off burner and either chill or serve at room temperature with creamy vanilla yogurt (vanilla bean ice cream or freshly whipped cream is ideal, but probably not the best choice for breakfast – or dinner, like when I ate it). This would also make an excellent breakfast yogurt parfait with crunchy homemade granola. And speaking of breakfast…

I had a breakfast meeting at Zell's Cafe on SE Belmont this morning. While their French toast left much to be desired, the miniature scones the waitress immediately placed in front of us upon sitting down took me by surprise. They were easily the lightest, most delicate scones to have ever passed my lips. So, with scones (along with rhubarb) on the brain all day, I figured that with the about-to-expire buttermilk in the fridge, I could make some scones tonight that would go nicely with my yogurt/rhubarb. Of course this meant I should balance out the tart and sweetness with something savory, especially since clatter failed in the savory rhubarb department. After remembering I had a few slices of bacon left in the fridge, the excitement of culinary possibilities sent me reaching for my apron and my Cooking Light cookbook.

The following recipe is based loosely off of Cooking Light’s Ham and Cheese Scones. My biggest issue with going “light” on baked goods (and most everything else) is, well, it just doesn’t taste as good that way. I’ve stayed true to CL’s recipe here, however, by using only egg whites and a minimal amount of butter. Other than that, I went full fat. In the original recipe, CL suggests using low sodium ham. While I might consider it, I wanted to use bacon tonight instead. As for reduced-fat cheese? Ha - not a chance!

AR’s Light(ish) Bacon and Cheddar Scones
2 cups flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
2 teaspoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
3 tablespoons chilled butter, in small pieces
3/4 cup shredded extra-sharp cheddar cheese (Tillamook, obviously!)
3 slices of bacon, fried and chopped (I would have used more, but it’s all I had)
3/4 cup buttermilk (CL wanted me to use fat-free. Uh, sorry – 1% is the best I can do.)
2 egg whites

Combine flour, powder, sugar, salt, and cayenne in bowl. Chop butter into small pieces (make sure it’s really cold. Using cold ingredients is the key to a good scone according to my mother – and she knows her scones!) and add to flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal. Stir in cheese and bacon. Whisk together buttermilk and egg white; add them to dry mixture. Stir only to combine – DO NOT OVERSTIR. The dough is pretty sticky, so be sure to flour your hands (I forgot to do this – what a mess) and the counter. Kneed dough only a few times – DO NOT OVERKNEED. (Are you getting the message? If you want fluffy scones, do not overhandle!) Form into an 8” circle onto a sprayed baking sheet and cut into but not through the dough to make 8 wedges. I brushed the top with one of the poor, neglected yolks and sprinkled with kosher salt to “complete the look”. The scones will be fairly salty on their own, but I liked that extra something on top – looks impressive too. Bake on 400 degrees for around 20 minutes until golden brown.

I didn’t have the original CL scones to compare side by side, but these don't disappoint (I have a pretty good idea who would win in the duel – after all, who wants reduced sodium ham and lowfat (i.e. tasteless) cheese when you can have bacon and extra sharp Tillamook?!). Eating alongside the vanilla yogurt with tart rhubarb/mango compote, I have to admit I was quite pleased with myself tonight. This meal would be perfect to serve friends for a weekend brunch, complete with extra spicy bloody marys, of course - salty, sweet, spicy, and tart all rolled into one! Just be sure to have your guests eat the scones while they’re still warm from the oven. It’ll guarantee an enthusiastic acceptance to any subsequent brunch invitation.